Common Questions
The questions we get most often, answered through our lens. Not generic advice. How we actually think about it.
First question: are they tired? Most biting in young puppies is driven by overtiredness or overstimulation, not aggression. Check your wake windows. If they've been up more than an hour, put them to bed. If they're rested, redirect to a chew toy and remove your hands from the equation. Biting is developmental. It peaks and fades. You don't need to 'correct' it. You need to manage the state behind it.
A crate can be a valuable regulation tool, but it's not mandatory. We use the crate during the day for enforced naps and short separations. Marlowe sleeps in our bed at night. The key is that the crate should feel safe, not punishing. Build the association slowly. Door open first. Treats inside. Let them choose it. Never force a distressed puppy into a crate and walk away.
Puppies under four months need 18 to 20 hours of sleep per day. That's not a suggestion. It's what their developing brains require. We use a 1-up/2-down schedule: one hour awake, two hours sleeping. Most behaviour problems we see in puppy groups come back to one thing: not enough sleep.
The first week isn't about training. It's about trust. Let your puppy feel safe in your home before you ask anything of them. After that, we start with settle training (capturing calm) and recall. These aren't drill-based. They're woven into daily life. If your puppy is rested and regulated, learning happens naturally.
That's usually not a 'high energy' dog. That's a dysregulated dog. Check three things: Are they overtired? Are they overstimulated? Is the environment too busy? Most zoomies and inability to settle resolve with more sleep and a calmer environment. If your puppy has been awake more than an hour, enforce a nap.
The critical socialization window is roughly 3 to 14 weeks, but that doesn't mean it's 'over' after that. It means you should prioritize quality exposure during that window. After it, socialization continues but requires more patience. The most important thing at any age: don't flood. One positive encounter is worth more than ten overwhelming ones.
Every indoor accident is a setup issue, not a dog failure. The system is simple: take them out frequently and proactively (after waking, eating, playing), use a consistent potty spot, supervise indoors with a leash or tether, and reward every outdoor success. If they have an accident, you missed a cue. Clean it up and adjust your timing. No punishment. Ever.
Most traditional training focuses on commands and compliance. We focus on nervous system regulation and developmental stage. We don't start with 'sit' and 'stay.' We start with sleep, calm, and safety. The commands come later, and they come more easily because the dog is in a state where they can actually learn.
Completely normal. The internet makes it look like everyone else has a perfect puppy by week two. They don't. Puppyhood is messy, tiring, and sometimes genuinely hard. You are not behind. Your dog is not broken. The fact that you're reading this means you care enough to do it well. That matters more than any technique.
We're building it as we live it. Every module is being developed alongside Marlowe's actual development. We'll release it when it's ready, not before. Join the waitlist and you'll be the first to know.
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