Common Questions
Answers to some of our most commonly asked questions.
About Marlowe
Marlowe is a Mini Australian Labradoodle.
Marlowe was born on December 24, 2025.
Marlowe came home on February 18, 2026. She was nine weeks old.
Marlowe was born on December 24, 2025. We keep her birthdate here because her exact age changes every week.
She is a mini, so she is expected to stay on the smaller side for an Australian Labradoodle. We do not want to promise an exact adult size because puppies do not always grow exactly to estimate.
We get asked this a lot. For now, we are not using this FAQ as a breeder recommendation page. What we can say clearly is that Marlowe is a Mini Australian Labradoodle and she came home to us at nine weeks old.
No. She is a real puppy. We share a lot of calm moments because calm is something we practice and build into her day. It does not mean she never bites, runs, gets excited, or has messy puppy moments.
We use the crate during the day for naps, rest, and short separations. Marlowe does not sleep in the crate overnight. The crate is a regulation tool for us, not a punishment.
Not all the time. We use supervision, setup, gates, tethering, and rest when needed. Freedom grows as the puppy shows they can handle it.
We keep current product links on our Links page because items change and we only want to share what we can stand behind. If something is not listed there yet, it usually means we have not added a reliable link for it.
Puppy questions
First question: are they tired? Most biting in young puppies is driven by overtiredness or overstimulation, not aggression. Check your wake windows. If they've been up more than an hour, put them to bed. If they're rested, redirect to a chew toy and remove your hands from the equation. Biting is developmental. It peaks and fades. You don't need to 'correct' it. You need to manage the state behind it.
A crate can be a valuable regulation tool, but it's not mandatory. We use the crate during the day for enforced naps and short separations. Marlowe sleeps in our bed at night. The key is that the crate should feel safe, not punishing. Build the association slowly. Door open first. Treats inside. Let them choose it. Never force a distressed puppy into a crate and walk away.
Puppies under four months need 18 to 20 hours of sleep per day. That's not a suggestion. It's what their developing brains require. We use a 1-up/2-down schedule: one hour awake, two hours sleeping. Most behaviour problems we see in puppy groups come back to one thing: not enough sleep.
The first week isn't about training. It's about trust. Let your puppy feel safe in your home before you ask anything of them. After that, we start with settle training (capturing calm) and recall. These aren't drill-based. They're woven into daily life. If your puppy is rested and regulated, learning happens naturally.
That's usually a tired dog, not a high-energy one. Check three things: Are they overtired? Are they overstimulated? Is the environment too busy? Most zoomies and inability to settle resolve with more sleep and a calmer environment. If your puppy has been awake more than an hour, enforce a nap.
The critical socialization window is roughly 3 to 14 weeks, but that doesn't mean it's 'over' after that. It means you should prioritize quality exposure during that window. After it, socialization continues but requires more patience. The most important thing at any age: don't flood. One positive encounter is worth more than ten overwhelming ones.
A lot less exciting than people think. Good socialization is often sitting at a distance, letting your puppy watch, rewarding check-ins, and leaving before they are overwhelmed. They do not need to meet every person or play with every dog. Calm observation counts.
Usually, no. You still need to be thoughtful. Avoid high-risk areas like dog parks, choose cleaner lower-traffic places, carry your puppy when needed, use a blanket, and focus on watching the world more than interacting with it. Your vet can guide you based on your area.
Create distance. Do not lure them closer, force a greeting, or make the thing bigger than it needs to be. Let them watch from where they can still take food, recover, and stay curious. Confidence comes from safe repetition, not pressure.
Every indoor accident is a setup issue, not a dog failure. The system is simple: take them out frequently and proactively (after waking, eating, playing), use a consistent potty spot, supervise indoors with a leash or tether, and reward every outdoor success. If they have an accident, you missed a cue. Clean it up and adjust your timing. No punishment. Ever.
Most traditional training focuses on commands and compliance. We focus on sleep, calm, and building real skills. We don't start with 'sit' and 'stay.' We start with making sure your puppy is rested, settled, and ready to learn. The commands come later, and they come more easily because the foundation is already there.
Completely normal. The internet makes it look like everyone else has a perfect puppy by week two. They don't. Puppyhood is messy, tiring, and sometimes genuinely hard. You are not behind. Your dog is not broken. The fact that you're reading this means you care enough to do it well. That matters more than any technique.
Yes. Puppy Chats are short, practical calls for families who want help thinking through what is happening in their actual home. They are not a formal training program. They are a grounded place to sort through sleep, biting, socialization, routine, or the thing that feels confusing right now.
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